In view of the importance of quality evaluation in development of new strains, considerable work has been carried out at CIRCOT on various aspects of quality evaluation such as ginning performance, fibre characteristics, spinning performance and yarn quality, etc. This has involved designing of new instruments and equipment, evaluation of new equipment developed by other organisations, standardisation of testing methods, development of new testing procedures, etc. To meet the demand for cotton by various sectors, improving quality is as important as increasing productivity. CIRCOT has been co-ordinating all technological work connected with the AICCIP intended to bring about continuous improvement in quality and production of cotton in the country. Under the AICCIP, the breeding material from cotton breeders of various states is systematically screened every year for fibre quality, yield and pest resistance. Promising genotypes are subjected to further trials.
The Institute evaluates fibre quality of several thousand samples required to be screened prior to identifying a variety, which is superior to an existing one. The process is repeated for a few years and spinning tests are also conducted at the Institute for samples of advanced trials to ensure that the variety when released is suitable for hassle-free processing. The results of tests on samples received under AICCIP are issued as reports to the concerned agricultural scientists. Some of the reports are discussed at the Zonal and All India Workshops and advice is given by CIRCOT Scientists to the breeders on the improvements desired in respect of fibre characteristics. Further, whenever desired, norms are suggested for adoption during selection of the material. Every year a Committee known as “Varietal Release Committee” carries out the task of releasing new varieties. Director, CIRCOT as a member of this Committee plays a dominant role as far as the Quality aspect of the variety concerned. CIRCOT is playing and would continue to play a significant role in the development and release of varieties with fibre properties that meet the demands of the user industry. Being strategically placed, CIRCOT through mill surveys finds out the projected mill requirement of cotton and advises the breeders who in turn reorient their breeding priorities. Keeping the major role of Quality in view, CIRCOT has set Norms for fibre attributes and yarn. Given below are the number of samples tested under AICCIP for last five years 2009 – 14
Statement showing yearwise number of samples tested and varieties released in CIRCOT under the AICCIP Project
|Year||Total No. of samples tested|| Varieties Released|
| 2009-2010|| 06172||–|
| 2010-2011|| 05411|| CICR – I (CISA-310), CNHO-I2, CICR-3 (CISA-614), LH-2076, VBCH-2231, Phule-688 (RHC-688), SVPR-4, HD-432, H-1236, H-I098 (Improved)|
| 2011-2012||09023|| H-1300, ARBH-813, CNA-1003, CSHG 1862|
| 2012-2013|| 23611|| H 1300, Nirmal 12 (NACH-12), AnandDesi Cotton 1, Phule Anmol (RAC 024), PhuleDhanwantary (Rh.arb. 02-1)|
| 2013-2014||15259|| CCH 510 -4, CNHO 12, NARASIMHA, CSHH 243|
Process Protocol for Development of Illustrative Fabrics for Fabric Handle (QEID)
Primary handle values established for shirting fabrics consisted of Koshi (stiffness), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness) and Shari (crispness). Currently translating equations are existing to arrive primary handle values from low stress mechanical properties using regression equations which are developed using Japanese expert’s opinion. In order to develop model based on Indian consumer perception, process protocols are needed for subjective assessment of shirting fabrics. For subjective evaluation of fabric hand, exact meaning of primary handle values has to be conveyed to the consumers/participants by providing illustrative fabrics. As consumers do not have experience in grading, their consistency and reliability of results will be better if they use illustrative fabrics during rating.
Shirting fabrics numbering 67 were studied for low stress mechanical properties using Kawabata fabric handle evaluation system. These low stress mechanical properties were used for arriving at primary handle values namely of Koshi (stiffness), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness) and Shari (crispness). After this procedure, all the 64 fabrics are divided into three groups in order of feeling intensity as strong, medium and weak7 Three swatches per primary handle value was selected as illustrative fabric as given in the following table.