Process Protocol for Development of Illustrative Fabrics for Fabric Handle

Primary handle values established for shirting fabrics consisted of Koshi (stiffness), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness) and Shari (crispness). Currently translating equations are existing to arrive primary handle values from low stress mechanical properties using regression equations which are developed using Japanese expert’s opinion. In order to develop model based on Indian consumer perception, process protocols are needed for subjective assessment of shirting fabrics. For subjective evaluation of fabric hand, exact meaning of primary handle values has to be conveyed to the consumers/participants by providing illustrative fabrics. As consumers do not have experience in grading, their consistency and reliability of results will be better if they use illustrative fabrics during rating.

Shirting fabrics numbering 67 were studied for low stress mechanical properties using Kawabata fabric handle evaluation system. These low stress mechanical properties were used for arriving at primary handle values namely of Koshi (stiffness), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness) and Shari (crispness). After this procedure, all the 64 fabrics are divided into three groups in order of feeling intensity as strong, medium and weak7 Three swatches per primary handle value was selected as illustrative fabric as given in the following table.

Primary handle Strong Medium Low
Koshi (stiffness) 13.8 7.22.2
Numeri (smoothness) 8.2 5.7 2.4
Fukurami (fullness) 8.0 4.9-1.0
Shari (crispness) 12.0 5.1 0.4